In March 1909 a small group of Commonwealth surveyors set up camp
near a creek in Ngunawal land - known to Europeans as
Klensendorlffe's.
Their purpose was to carry out preliminary survey work on an
area of thirty-six square miles to define the city area of the
proposed national capital. They remained for three weeks.
The following year the surveyors returned and set up a base
camp which consisted of in addition to their tents a few
timber offices and a concrete plan room. The plan room still
stands. It is on land now called Camp Hill off State Circle
just below Parliament House.
By 1912 the surveyors had moved across the Molonglo River to
a site near Acton House (small old farm cottage). Nearby
workmen constructed a number of substantial temporary timber
buildings which included a bank, post office, hospital, offices,
cottages and single men's barracks known as the Bachelors Quarters.
Acton thus became Canberra's first suburb. It was and
remained for the next half century, the Administrative
Centre of Canberra.
A world wide competition was held to design the new city.
It was won by the American Walter Burley Griffin.
The city proper was set within a circle of low hills.
From the beginning Canberra was a garden city with buildings
connected to a clean water supply, electricity and sewerage.
Canberra was designed with wide roads suitable for the new
inventions - the motorised vehicles.
The date set for the ceremonies to mark the beginning of
the city was 12 March, 1913. In the morning hours of that
day men and women wearing their finery made their way by foot,
sulky and horseless carriages over dusty paddocks to the chosen
site on Capital Hill. The official party and those of
importance stood on a specially erected timber dais. The
ceremonies of the day included suitable patriotic songs and
numerous speeches. The military presence was supplied by
the 11th Light Horse of NSW Lancers, 28th Light Horse, 9th
Mounted Rifles, two mounted bands and a guard of honour by
RMC cadets from Duntroon. At the appropriate hour Lord
Denman, the Governor General followed by Prime Minister
Fisher and Minister for Home Affairs, King O'Malley, each
armed with a silver trowel with ivory handle tapped one of
the six foundation stones to mark the official beginning
of construction of the city. At precisely mid-day Lady
Denman opened a gold case from which she took out the small
card bearing the name of the city and said, I name the
capital city of Australia, CANBERRA.
The events of the grand and historical occasion were captured
on film now held in the Film and Sound Archives, Canberra.
The man cranking the handle of the film making device took
time off from the duties of the day to focus his lens on a
lone dog weaving back and forth through the chatting lines
of cadets.
The workmen who came to built the city moved into a number
of segregated camps - married and single men's. They were
established near work sites at Cotter River, Power House
and Brickyards. Many of the single men rented tents from
the Commonwealth for one shilling and sixpence (1/6d) per
week plus another sixpence land rent. Married men were
expected to build their own cottages. The majority used
timber frames covered with iron on the roof and hessian
on the walls. Paper lined the interior of these cottages
and many owners whitewashed the exteriors. These houses
had no electricity, no sewerage and no water.
On 8 August, 1912 David Miller was appointed the territory's
first administrator. Prior to then work on the city was
organised and run from Melbourne by the Department of Home
Affairs. PT Owen and Charles Scrivener were in charge of
work in the territory. Distance created problems with
communications.
From the time when Walter Burley Griffin won the competition
there was friction between those for and against the building
of Canberra. The department in charge designed one plan which
was different to the one designed by Walter Burley Griffin.
Frederick Watson in his book, History of Canberra, described
some of the troubles in the following manner:
In 1913 the departmental board itself was considering alterations
in its own design...In July 1913, with the approval of cabinet,
Kelly [newly appointed Minister for Home Affairs in charge of
Canberra and the territory] arranged for Griffin to visit
Australia, and to confer with the departmental board. Kelly
proposed that Griffin should have an opportunity of studying
the actual site without the presence of the board; but, when
he arrived at Canberra on the 19th August, and spent five days
in an inspection of the site, Griffin was accompanied by three
members of the board, D Miller, CR Scrivener and JS Murdoch.
At this early date there is evidence of some hostility towards
Griffin by some members of the board. In Melbourne, Kelly
informed the board that he wished the members to consult with
Griffin "on the basis of the original plan, with such
recommendations for amendment as they could make." Kelly was
then asked by a member of the board, "Does that mean, sir, that
all our work is to go for nothing?" to which Kelly replied,
"I expect from you absolute loyalty in carrying out my decision".
Kelly therefore reversed the decision of King O'Malley, his
predecessor, rejected the departmental plan, and adopted
Griffin's premiated plan subject to amendments...
Several days were spent in Melbourne trying to come to an
agreement but this failed with the result on 5 October 1913
Kelly sacked the board. On 18 October Walter Burley Griffin
was appointed federal capital director of design and construction.
Unfortunately the conflict of ideas did not cease.
Frederick Watson in his chapter The Griffin Plan sets out
concisely the major differences between the departmental
plan and Griffin's. He comments:
Within and without parliament, there was constant criticism
of the respective merits of the Griffin and departmental plans,
of alleged extravagance, of water supply from the Cotter river,
and of the constant delays and alterations of Canberra.
These criticism arose from opponents to the selection of
Canberra or the establishment of any capital city, who
desired to defeat the project by ridicule and from supporters
of Canberra, who desired to see some definite realisation of
their ideals...Passive opposition to WB Griffin as federal
capital director of design and construction developed within
the department of home affairs soon after his appointment;
after his return from America in May 1914, this opposition
became active. An interminable series of differences or
acts of wants of co-ordination between Griffin and departmental
officials developed...Opposition even to the idea of Canberra
existed; a member of a departmental board and an official in
the department stated before the royal commissioner that he,
"never had any desire to assist in building Canberra," that
he "hoped the whole proposal would be dropped," and that he
would "like to see the federal capital strangled for a
hundred years".
However, work in the city did continue if but slowly. By the
end of 1913 The Residency (Canberra House) was completed,
the Power House (on the site chosen by the department) well
under way, the Brickyards were up and running, the Oddie
Telescope (Mt Stromlo) in use and the Royal Military College,
Duntroon processing its first group cadets. In November
1913 Kelly instructed Griffin to prepare draft conditions
for a world wide competition for the design of a Parliament
House. After approval they were published 30 June, 1914.
The competition was cancelled after the outbreak of World
War I in August, 1914. War also depleted the workforce as
men left to don the uniforms of the armed services.
During 1914 the hospital at Acton and the rail link between
Queanbeyan and Canberra were completed, and the main nursery
established in Sheedy's Paddock, Yarralumla. The go slow
policy of the department continued with the result that no
other large construction works were commenced in 1914.
Work on the sewer began in 1915. The following year financial
restraints and lack of manpower caused major works in the city
to grind to a halt. The brickyards closed. By the time peace
was declared in 1918 completion of the city was again in doubt.
Not only was there a shortage of tradesmen to build the city,
but worse still - a money shortage.
A poem written in the Visitors' Book in Yarralumla House
(now Government House) in 1920 sums up the uncertainty of the
times.
Canberra's National Anthem
Billy, Billy, Billy, my boy,
What are you waiting for now?
You promised us Canberra sometime last June,
As did Ministers, Poynton and Groom,
All the Members Secs
Keep asking me,
Which day? What day?
We'll get from Vic away.
Billy, Billy, Billy my boy.
What are you waiting for now!
Written, Composed and Sung by the Federal Members at
Canberra for the First time on Tuesday 12/2/1920.
Billy was Billy Hughes, Prime Minister of Australia. He like
other dignitaries visiting Canberra before the Hotel Canberra
opened in December, 1924, stayed at Yarralumla House. Griffin
and Hughes did not see eye to eye. Conflict between Billy
Hughes and Walter Burley Griffin increased with the result
that Walter Burley Griffin resigned and moved to Sydney.
On 22 January, 1921 the Hughes government appointed the
federal capital advisory committee [FCAC] "with a view to
enabling the federal parliament to meet and the central
administration of the Commonwealth to be carried out as
early as practicable at Canberra on the basis of the acceptance
of the plan of lay out of the federal capital city by Mr WB
Griffin. Thus the decision was made to continue with the
construction of the national capital but within the confines
of a limited budget which permitted the construction of only
the essential buildings necessary to move the Federal Parliament
from Melbourne to Canberra. Thus the original concept of
grand public buildings was replaced with the reality of
provisional rather than permanent - including the Parliament
House.
A group of five men, J Sulman - architect, EM de Burgh -
engineer, HE Ross - architect, PT Owen, Director General of
Works in federal Dept of Works & Railways, & JHT Goodwin,
C'wealth Surveyor General made up the FCAC. John Sulman was
appointed chairman. In August 1923 the First Sod of the
Provisional Parliament House was turned and the following
month the completed Telopea Park School opened for business
with Mr Henry at its helm. In December 1924 the first land
auction was held and the first block in Eastlake Shopping Centre
was bought by JB Young Gradually the nucleus of roads,
reservoirs, electric light poles, brick cottages etc emerged
on the surface of the paddocks and underground the sewer miners,
who had returned to work in 1921, burrowed from Western Creek
end towards the Parliament House. The city was no longer just
a dream on paper.
Accommodation for workmen was never a priority of those
who held the purse strings. However in 1921 the FCAC
recognised that in order to attract tradesmen from the
building booms and comforts of the major cities it was
necessary to provide some housing above the level of humpies.
One obvious solution pointed out by men such as JB Youngwas
to utilize the empty Internment Camp at Molonglo
(built in May 1918). They saw the roughly made structures,
with a bit of work, as an ideal self contained workmen's suburb.
It even had a gaol. The result - the remaining barracks not
sold off at the end of the war were converted into 120
tenements (3-6 rooms each) and barrack's accommodation for
150 single men. The first tenants moved in towards the end
of 1921 and shortly afterwards the Molonglo Primary School
opened. Its first headmaster was Mr Ivey. The population
of this settlement in 1925 was 760 - around one fifth of
the population of the Territory.
Not all Molonglo buildings remained in the settlement.
Groups of usually around 10 - 15 were moved by jinkers
to sites near construction areas including Eastlake,
Civic Centre, the Brickyards and the Arsenal.
The FCAC also put money aside to erect a few small brick
cottages. They were in Section 64 Westridge (Yarralumla -
10 cottages), Braddon (20 cottages) and opposite the Power
House (20 cottages). These cottages were occupied from late
1921. In 1923 another 16 cottages were constructed at Forrest
in Ducane and Franklin Streets. The next move by the FCAC
was to build 51 small portable timber cottages in The Gap at
Westlake. They were ready for occupation from March, 1924.
In 1926 another 10 were built bringing the number in the suburb
up to 61. Westlake (now Stirling Park) was near the worksite
of the Provisional Parliament House and out of sight of
permanent Canberra.
In 1922 on the opposite side of the Creek to The Gap Cottages
Contractor John Howie built 25 timber cottages for his married
men and 18 or more timber huts for his single men (Hostel Camp).
Howie's Cottages were the prototype of those designed by HM
Rolland erected in The Gap. In 1924 the FCAC built another
15 of this type of cottage at Acton and in 1925/1926 the
Federal Capital Commission (FCC) continued the building
programme with another 120 cottages at the Causeway.
At the beginning of 1925 control of construction work was
taken over from the FCAC by the Federal Capital Commission
(FCC). John Butters who held the title of First Commissioner,
headed the new body. He along with his wife and family lived
for a short time at the Hotel Canberra until a refurbished
Canberra House and offices at Acton were made ready. His
purpose was to speed up the building programmes.
John Butter's priority was not accommodation for construction
workers - a point of view he made quite clear at a meeting
held in May 1925 to form a Social Service Association with
the objective of improving the welfare of construction
workers and their families. Mr Leo O'Neill, AWU representative,
made the point at the meeting that the most pressing welfare
need for the builders and their families was decent housing.
Mr Butters informed the gathering that he would close the
meeting if this line of discussion continued. In fairness
to Mr Butters it should be stated that he had a very tight
budget to carry out the tasks required of him.
The FCC did, however, arrange for the building of a
small number of permanent weatherboard cottages for artisans
in Westridge and in the permanent suburb of Ainslie in
Corroboree Park. At Ainslie the weatherboards were
segregated from the brick area. A few of the public servants
who began arriving from 1927 were offered some of these cottages.
The few cottages built by the FCC for construction workers
were insufficient and in an attempt to solve the housing
problem made two sites available for married men to build
their own dwellings. They were Riverbourne (on a site 3
miles from Queanbeyan Post Office on the southern bank of
the Molonglo River - 1925-1927) and Russell Hill (site near
Campbell Shops, 1926-1950s). Russell Hill and Duntroon
also had Primary Schools to cater for the needs of the
numerous children.
The FCC also had plans to remove all temporary suburbs and
single men's camps around 1929 and transfer the married men
into brick cottages in the suburbs of Eastlake, Griffith,
Ainslie and Barton.
A few families did make the move, but many remained. The
rent charged for brick cottages was more than many could
afford and by 1929 many had lost their jobs.
The 1930s were depression years. Major building work in
Canberra once again slowed almost to a standstill and the
workmen's suburbs of Westlake, Causeway, Russell Hill and
Oaks Estate remained along with single men's camps at White
City (removed early 1930s), Capitol Hill, Causeway, Brickyards,
Duntroon, Parkes Barracks and Mt Ainslie. Selwyn Wark
recalled that from the late 1920s through the 1930s that in
addition to the official camps, there were little camps all
over the place. People had to survive.
Hostel No 1 - also known as The Politician's Hotel and Hotel
Canberra opened in December 1924. Until that time the only
accommodation available for single officials was at Yarralumla
House and the Bachelors Quarters at Acton. The former was for
men of importance and the latter for public servants of lower
ranks. The Bachelors Quarters was in use from December, 1912.
Until Hotel Ainslie was opened in 1925 there was no public
accommodation available for single ladies employed in the
public service in Canberra. In 1926 the Lady Hopetoun Club
was founded. Its purpose was to provide suitable accommodation
for young girls of the domestic class. The FCC provided the
club with four houses in Blandfordia. This club was disbanded
when the YMCA moved into Canberra in 1929.
In early 1926 the Hotel Kurrajong and Printers Quarters
opened for business and in 1927 they were joined by Hotels
Acton and Wellington along with Houses Brassey and Beauchamp.
These hotels and houses were used to accommodate single men
and women (segregated) and a few married couples with no
children or a small family transferred to Canberra.
All hotels in the territory were dry. The arrival of the
federal parliament in May 1927 highlighted this problem -
a parliament without alcohol was unthinkable. King O'Malley,
a non drinker, was the cause of the territory's dry state.
He declared the sale of alcohol in the territory - forbidden.
In November 1928 the first electoral roll in the territory was
compiled and the question of Yes or No to alcohol in the
territory was put to the vote. The result was an overwhelming
Yes and the first deliveries of the alcoholic beverages were
made in December 1928 to the hotels and cafes in Kingston,
Manuka and Civic.
Permanent housing constructed from 1926 was built in the new
suburbs of Ainslie, North Ainslie, South Ainslie, Eastlake
(Kingston), Blandfordia (Forrest) Barton, Red Hill, Mugga Way,
Manuka and Griffith. Numerous documents found in the
Australian Archives note that these houses in comparison to
those available for the same rent or less in the State capital
cities were smaller and less attractive dwellings. To help
compensate the newcomers each tenant transferred to Canberra
was made a rent allowance. Rent was based on a percentage of
the cost of building (around 10%) per annum and a minimum
covenant placed on cottages in each of the suburbs. For Ainslie
it was seven hundred pounds and Mugga Way, fifteen hundred pounds.
The result was that the lower paid officials lived in Ainslie
and less than a handful of top public servants in Mugga Way.
A similar class rental system was used in the hotels and
boarding houses. Hotel Canberra, for example, was out of
the price range of the lady typistes who boarded in Gorman and
Beauchamp Houses.
People in the permanent cottages were encouraged to buy
their houses. A 10% of building cost deposit was required
and the remainder of cost of building was repaid over a
thirty year period for brick cottages and 25 year period
for weatherboards at a small fixed interest rate.
Construction workers living in the temporary cottages
received no rent allowance and were not permitted to
buy their cottages.
Front fences were banned in the permanent suburbs. Instead
hedges were grown and these were kept neatly trimmed by the
men from the Parks & Gardens department.
The Depression began in the Federal Capital Territory (FCT)
shortly after the opening of Parliament in May 1927. In
1929 the whole country was affected and many Australians
blamed its cause on the folly of building a national capital.
Canberra was referred to as a great white elephant.
A few major building projects were undertaken in the 1930s.
They included, The Swimming Pool (Manuka), the Institute of
Anatomy (now Film & Sound Archives), Lord Casey's house,
Hotels Civic & Kingston, Civic Picture Theatre and Canberra
High School and, in the following decade, the Canberra
Hospital, American Embassy and the War Memorial.
In early 1930 the FCC was replaced by Federal Capital
Advisory Council which could advise the Commonwealth
but not make laws. Nearly a half century had to pass before
the advent of self government in 1989. Decisions about local
requirements were made by a Minister for the Interior appointed
by the ruling party in the Commonwealth Government. The man
they selected never came from Canberra and therefore was not
responsible to the people whom he ruled.
During the early 1930s men at all levels were sacked,
including architects, many of whom had made the city their
home. To help those without work an Unemployment Relief
Committee was set up. People in work contributed to the
employment funds including public servants whose pays were
reduced during the years of the depression. The Commonwealth
matched the money raised - pound for pound.
The Committee consulted with the Commonwealth for suitable work
for the few they could employ. It was capital poor and labour
intensive and during this hard time many of the pine plantations
were planted. Another project was the planting of Canberra's
streets under the guidance of Alexander Bruce who took over
from Thomas Charles Weston, first Superintendent of Parks &
Gardens. Killing the rabbit population supplied work for others
including one man who was selected for the job because he had a
large family of nine children who could assist him. Single men
were employed for three day's work in a six to seven week period
and married men one weeks work in four.
To be considered for employment in the territory men had to be
registered on the electoral roll for the advisory council elections
(early 1930s). This means of identifying those living in the
territory adversely affected men not of Australian or British
birth who were not eligible to enrol. Australian Archives
contain many letters from such disenfranchised men begging for
any kind of work. One, an American, was an ANZAC and had
lived in this part of the world for over twenty five years.
Those who came in search of work were given a fortnight's
respite in one of the camps such as Parkes Barracks for single
men and Mt Ainslie Camp for married. They received a handout
of food which consisted of the basics of bread, butter, tea,
sugar, jam, potatoes and meat. Many of the men who walked
the roads called into farm houses, such as Kaye's situated
near the modern Lennox Park at the rear of the Hotel Canberra
or Corkhill's now covered by the Water Police buildings.
They were given a feed and a little tea to tide them over.
The policy of employing only those living in the territory
began before the Great Depression. This policy was in situ
during the early 1920s and resulted in many who lived in
Queanbeyan moving into the territory. The majority moved to
Russell Hill, Westlake, Causeway, Molonglo and Oaks Estate.
When work was tight another policy of employing returned
soldiers first was also brought into force. Married men before
single was also the order of the day.
Some positives did occur in the thirties. Ally Nish, one of
the territory's retrenched architects founded the first sports'
store and AJ Ryan established in his Kingston Store Canberra's
first radio station - 2CA. It commenced operation on 14
November1931 and shortly afterwards was challenged by
Mr Shakespeare, owner of The Canberra Times, who stated
that Ryan had broken the conditions of his lease. Ryan
later moved to a new site near Molonglo Reservoir in present
day Symonston and in 1940 into a new Art Deco style building
in Mort Street, Civic Centre. By this time Canberra's second
radio station, 2CY, was broadcasting.
The first broadcast from the National Capital occurred
12 July 1926 from the Causeway Hall. The Philharmonic
Society performed.
Jock Simmie was a successful local contractor. In the 1930s
he built the Institute of Anatomy. A letter dated 12th
June1925 from CS Daley, Acting Secretary to Secretary Home &
Territories Department has the following to say about the
proposed building and nearby land:
I am directed to say that the semi-circular site between
the University reservation and Civic Place marked on the
map forwarded with your letter under reply is considered
suitable for the purposes of a National Zoological Museum.
This area comprises five and half acres which it is thought
will be sufficient for this purpose...With regard to the
site of the proposed Park for the Accommodation of Live
Specimens of Australian Fauna, I am to say that the Commission
raises no objections to the area coloured green - approximately
30 acres - being allotted for this purpose. Until such time
as the Lake Scheme is developed this area of the peninsula will,
of course, be very much greater, approximately double. I am to
say, however, that it is considered that the term "National Park"
should not be used in connection with this proposal. A reference
to the Griffin plan and his explanatory report will show that
the original intention was to locate Zoological gardens on the
north side of the Molonglo River between Commonwealth Avenue
and Federal Avenue in association with the Botanical Gardens,
Aquarium and various Galleries and Museums, and the Commission
can at present see no reason to depart from this idea...
The park was not built. However the Institute was and this
venue was used for a number of national conferences including
one on polio and another on cancer. The building was also
used as a morgue and held Aboriginal artifacts along with
numerous skeletons and Phar Lap's heart.
The Swimming Pool at Manuka was officially opened on 26 January
1931. It unofficially opened on Christmas Day, 1930. During
the period when it was used unofficially mixed bathing was not
permitted because at the time only one of the two dressing
sheds was completed. The original idea for the pool included
heating and enclosing the complex. Monetary constraints put
an end to this proposal.
Prior to the opening of the Manuka Pool people used the
Molonglo River. Two pools had dressing sheds. One was
at Acton just down from the Bachelors Quarters. This
swimming hole was so deep that local swimmers recalled
that it was impossible to find the bottom. Perhaps it was
part of the Limestone Caves system in the area. The other
pool was near the Power House.
On 11 November 1925 a Swimming & Life Saving Club was formed.
The President was Mr WE Potts, Vice President Mr Brackenreg,
Hon Sec Mr Webb, Hon Treasurer Mr Sanders, Minute Secretary
Miss Thwaite and Committee, Mrs Ashdown and Messrs Beer,
Knox, Fizelle and O'Neill. Their home pool was at Acton where
two pools were set aside - one for non swimmers and beginners
and the other for more experienced swimmers. Cost of membership
was 5/- for gentlemen and 2/6d for ladies and children under
16 free. Perhaps one reason for the Club's shortlived life
was that many, such as the Westlake and Molonglo people had
their own swimming holes where they swam from around September
to March, gratis.
In 1938 Lord and Lady Casey had an impressive red brick house
built for them just off State Circle. Today it is called Casey
House and it is one of the dwellings in the Embassy area of
Canberra. The second built in the area of Westlake was the
American Embassy erected in the early 1940s. It was followed
in the late 1950s by the South African High Commission Residence and
the French Embassy.
Nearby to the Patents Office in Kings Avenue was the first
National Library. The former opened in 1940 and the latter
in 1934. The library, later replaced with a new building
in the late sixties, was the equivalent of Aladdin's Cave
for those who loved books. The stacks were open for browsers.
During these early years the only book store I recall was
owned by Verity Hewitt which opened in 1938 in an upstairs
shop in the Sydney Building in Civic Centre.
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