Garden Edge Stone

Sandstone

Bathurst Concrete Products Garden Edge Stone are designed for garden edging or small retaining walls up to 400mm in height. They require no mortar, they are light, easy to handle and may be laid in straight or curved walls. The Garden Edge Stone comes in a range of colours as shown below.

Sandstone

Macquarie

Earth Apricot

Evans

                  Before you begin make sure you have

• Shovel and wheelbarrow
• A spirit level or water level.
• String line and pegs to set out the wall.
• Garden hose to mark out curves in wall
• Can of spray paint to mark out footing.
• Lump hammer
• Straw broom.
• Gloves & Eye protection.
  

                      Calculating the amount required

The dimensions of the block are 200mm in length 110mm in height and 140mm in width. (45.45 blocks per m2).
Eg. A wall 10 metres in length 3 coarses high = 150 blocks.
Don’t forget to allow for the blocks below ground level, when estimating the total height.

                                         Construction Method

 

• After setting out and marking the position of the wall with the spray paint, dig the foundation trench about 110mm deep and approximately 220 wide, making sure the trench is level. For steep sites, the trench may have to be stepped up or down in 110 mm increments.

• If steps are required in the footing, space them out in 200mm increments, to avoid cutting blocks. Use a piece of 110 mm wide timber to form up the steps and peg them securely with timber or steel pegs which can later be removed after the first coarse has been laid. You may use either coarse bedding sand or concrete as the footings.

• You may use either a coarse bedding sand or concrete as the footings. If you are using a sand base first clean out any loose dirt from the trench and make sure the bottom of the trench is level and firmly compact. Then fill the trench with coarse sand, Level the sand until it forms a 60mm thick level pad.

• If you use a concrete footing clean out all loose dirt, and then pour approximately 60mm of concrete into the trench and level off. This acts as a firm base for the first course to bed into. Reinforcement in the concrete is not necessary.

• Bed the first coarse into the sand (or into the wet concrete) and level each unit side to side and back to front. Use a string line along the back of the blocks for alignment. Care should be taken to make sure this coarse is level. If it is not exactly level then all ensuing courses will not go together properly and the wall may ultimately, need to be rebuilt. If using concrete wait until the first coarse is set before the next stage is begun.

• Place the locking lip of the second coarse behind the first coarse and using a running bond pattern {that is the vertical joint of the bottom coarse, should be in the middle of the top block}. If the wall needs to be straight at the ends, instead of tapering, then a block will need to be cut in half and used every second coarse.

• Repeat these steps until you are ready to lay the final coarse, which can be glued down with construction adhesive if thought necessary. Once the final coarse has been laid place the backfill or topsoil up against the block work.

• When building curves it may be necessary to remove the outsides of the locking lip to maintain even spacing between blocks. This can be done, by chipping off with a bolster or cold chisel. Care should be taken not to remove too much of the locking lip, only what is necessary. You must use eye protection when doing this.