Journey of Mr Hawdon and  Lieut.Munday [late 21st regt]
From Port Phillip to Adelaide. 1839


We take the following interesting account of the journey of
these gentlemen from Melbourne to Adelaide from The Southern
Australian of the 28th Ultimo. It will be perused with 
considerable interest. They accomplished the journey between
the two settlements,in a tandem, in the short space of one
month. The following is in the Journal:-

Lieutenant Munday, late of 21st regiment, and I,left Melbourne
at noon on Thursday the 11th of July, and after a drive of
thirty two miles over the beautiful open grassy downs of
Port Phillip, halted for the night near Mount Macedon. The
route for nine miles continued to pass underneath the southern
point of the Macedonn, through ranges, or as it is usually 
termed, the Black Forest, thickly covered with stringy bark
and other timber of great size.  At the termination of this
forest, the country agin opens into undulating downs; the soil
is of good agricultural quality, and the pasturage not to be
surpassed for sheep grazing. This park-like scenery continued
for twenty miles, when we crossed the Campasby rivulet, a small
but valuable stream which flows into the river Hume, four miles
below the junction of the rivers Goulburn and Hume. Having spent
the greater part of a day with our friends Messrs Ebden & Yaldwin,
whose flocks occupy this district, we started from Mr Yaldwin's
on the Campasby, at noon on the 14th.  A few miles brought us to
the pass over the Colobin. Running through a deep ravine down
high steep banks, Mr Munday found it a difficult task to drive
with any degree of safety. The country from here was of granite
soil, affording good sheep pasturage. Crossing over a rocky pass,
called by Major Mitchell -  Expedition Pass,we encamped in a small 
grassy valley on the sourthen side of the range - the distance
travelled during this afternoon was twenty miles.  Unfortunately
on this our first night it rained heavily, but we were fortunate
enough in consoling ourselves with some most excellent cordial
Mr Yaldwin had put in our gig.

Monday 15  - Passed over some small timbered hills through which
a branch of the Yarraine streamlet runs (when flowing),the valleys
well grassed. About five miles further we saw a number of emus 
feeding. The soil,as we proceeded, was of rather an inferior
quality. Travelling for about ten miles, we approached a deep and
broad valley through which the course of a large creek or principal
branch of the Yarraine winds. On some of the sheets of water,we
observed musk ducks, with large heads, of an ususual [sic] size.
After having dined, and changed the horses in harness, we proceeded
down the valley for the distance of a mile,when,turning to the left,
we went over some stony hills for four miles; the remainder of
the journey continued open downs, when we again  descended into a
deep valley and encamped by the edge of a large sheet of water, our
day's journey being twenty eight miles. Here we had some difficulty
in procuring wood for our fires.

Tuesday 16 - We were considerably delayed by four of our horses
galloping away, an evil which might have been serious to us, but
fortunately two were dragging their tether ropes. After starting
we passed for seven miles over an open country, when we came to a
beautiful rich valley; here we fed our horses and waited for John,
whom we had sent back in search of a brace of pistols left at our
last encampment.  On the sheet of water there were a great many
wood ducks; emus were also numerous, but having no greyhound,we
could only look upon them as ornaments to the country around us.
On John's successful return, we contined to pass over open downs
the soil not of first rate quality, but the scenery a perfect
panorama; althought adapted for sheep, it is by no means fit for
extensive agricultural operations.  In the evening, we came to a
sheep station belonging to Mr Bowerman, upon what I should consider
to be also a branch of the Yarraine River. It rained in torrents
all night, and continued to do so until noon; we,therefore, remained
all day at Mr Allen's house under his unlimited hospitality.
He shewed us a human skull that had been found near here, with two 
fractures behind, apparently done with a tomahawk. I felt perfectly
confident the skull had been that of a white man.Mr Allen intends
carrying it to Melbourne,when some unfortunate man's fate may
be discovered.  The skull was of peculiarly intelligent formation. 
After Mr Allen had most liberally replenished our stock of 
provisions, on Thursday the 18th we passed for seventeen miles 
through ranges covered with stringy bark, these are called by 
Major Mitchell the Australian Pyrenees.  
A few miles to the west of us, they appeared  much higher and more 
difficult to cross.  The range was undulating and good driving road 
where we passed over; kangaroos were seen here for the first time on 
the journey, and upon a sheet of water some teal ducks.  
The remainder of our day's journey was through an  open grassy gum 
tree forest.  After having travelled twenty three  miles, we halted 
for the night near a small hole of water; here we observed the bones 
of a horse,from its postition, we concluded it must have been  blood 
mare belonging to Mr Ebden, and killed by the notorious Dignum and 
his followers for provisions.


Friday 19th - After a late breakfast we started,leaving the 
Pyrenees behind us.From this side the appear a formidable range of 
mountains.We now crossed the plains for ten miles, the surface much 
broken with  small holes, when we came upon a creek of good water.
We crossed open downs of a similar description for eight miles.
While  at dinner, six emus ran past behind a hill to the westward, 
probably  disturbed by a body of natives hunting. We then continued 
our journey  through the same picturesque country for fifteen miles 
- the Grampian  hills on our right. These mountains are of singular 
formation, the  greater part of them terminating in conical tops, 
indicating volcanic  formation. Although the country is at this 
season covered with  beautiful grass,  the soil is inferior to the 
Monaroo downs lying west  of Twofold Bay; but for fine panoramic 
scenery it is unequalled. About  two hours after sunset by the light 
of the moon, we made the River  Hopkins by the side of a large 
sheet of water,I think impregnated with  alum. The night was 
boisterous, we could find no wood for a fire, but  we collected 
sufficient quantities of reeds to enable us to boil a few quarts of 
water, and such as it was, managed to make ourselves as comfortable 
as circumstances permitted.

Saturday 20th - We passed down the valley of the Hopkins to a belt
of trees, where we breakfasted.  Whilst examining a sheet of water
to get at some wild ducks, we discovered a native skulking amongst
the reeds. he seemed much alarmed either at us or our guns and tried
to get off. His tribe were no doubt watching us though not seen, but
we had no time to attempt any communication. We travelled on fifteen
miles, and encamped, the day being wet.  Half this distance was over 
plains - the remainder a beautiful forest of she-oak, the accacia
fragrans. Our encampment was in a pretty sequestered nook 
surrounded by fine grass, which our horses enjoyed.  Emus and turkeys
were numerous over all the route. It rained heavily during the early 
part of the night, and the tent gave way; Mr Munday's bed was
fairly drenched in consequence,but he bore the discomfort with the
good humour of a bushman.

Sunday ,21 - This morning it snowed heavily,and continued till noon,
when the day cleared up. We continued our journey for twenty miles
at the rate of eight miles an hour, through a beatiful open forest
of she-oak. The land was here very good. After rounding the
most southern point of the Grampian ranges, we passed for a few 
miles through a country of the same description, when, coming to 
the edge of an extensive plain, which promised no shelter for the 
night, we  turned up two miles to the right and encamped in a green 
valley near a sheet of water, immediately under the singular mount 
before mentioned. Emus, kangaroos and black ducks were numerous, 
but having a good stock of fresh provisions, we did not think it 
necessary to kill animals which we could not use.

Monday 22nd - Leaving the forest, we entered upon extensive 
plains somewhat marshy and heavily grassed. We now quitted the 
reedy creek we were upon, and took our course westward across 
excellent sheep downs. We again entered upon a forest lightly 
timbered with she-oak gum and cherry tree. This forest continued 
for seven miles, when we came to a stream, the upper part of that 
called by Major Mitchell,the Wannon. Large broad and deep sheets 
of water, occasionally extending to a mile in length, were covered 
with ducks and swans, of which we took in a supply of a brace of 
each. Following the course, we  encamped on a beautiful spot of 
ground after a journey of twenty-five miles. Nothing could be 
more pleasing than this day's drive

Tuesday 23 - At day-break this morning we found a cow grazing 
quietly with our horses. On examination we found it to one of my 
own which had strayed from a party proceeding to Adelaide a few 
months previous. We were told by our servant that he had the blacks 
chattering during the night; and whilst at breakfast we heard them 
talking and shouting all around us,but we could not see any of them.  
After starting a few hundred yards, two women went screaming from a 
flat where they were pretending to collect roots, and immediately 
three men came forward  with bundles of spears in their hands and  
green boughs wreathed round their bodies in token of a wish to 
communicate.  They appeared very anxious for us to stop to speak, 
but we returned their salutations without halting. About a mile 
further, we met the whole tribe who  ran after us awhile shouting, 
and as we supposed,entreating us to  stop, but Mr Munday drove at 
such a pace that we soon left the party  far behind us.  The 
remainder of our day's journey continued along the course of the 
river, varying from S.W to S, for twenty five miles through a most 
beautiful forest, the whole way covered with a thick carpeting of 
grass - the trees being alternately she-oak, acacia  fragrans, 
gum-tree, honeysuckle, and mimosa - the general features being 
similar to the Yarra, eight miles about Melbourne. In the evening 
we crossed to the right bank, where our encampment was enlivened 
by the songs of birds, which were here very numerous.

Wednesday,24 - The country today was for some distance of the 
same description. We crossed a few vallies leading into the Wannon, 
whose course now was seen winding through the middle of a deep 
green valley, bounded on either side by rich green flats - the 
hills,covered with fine grass on the sides,descending very steeply 
to the flats.  Gradually the country opened out to downs spotted 
with she-oak and acacia fragrans trees.  About a miles before us 
on an eminence,we were agreeably surprised to see a flock of sheep 
grazing. On driving up to the shepherd we learnt that they were Mr 
Winter's,lately shipped from Van Diemen's Land to Portland Bay.  
He directed us over the  hill to where his huts were.  Here we 
encamped, and received every attention from the shepherd - Messrs 
Winter being from home. Our  day's stage was about twenty miles.  
About six miles above this station, the shepherds told us, the 
Grange of Major Mitchell flows  into the Wannon on its left bank, 
near which place are two waterfalls one of fifty and the other of 
one hundred feet.  We were informed that the blacks had, some time 
previous, been very troublesome, one of the men showed us a wound 
in the back he had received from a spear.  They had, however,seen 
none for some months past.


Thusday 25 - Leaving the Wannon to our right, we crossed a high 
ridge of downs and descended into another valley through which a 
small creek takes it course - the country for many miles covered 
with fine grass.  The scenery was park like, and in fact, the 
country as beautiful and good as imagination could paint, or the 
most fastidious settler desire.  An hour and a quarter's drive of 
nine miles brought us to the station of Mr Henty, distant from 
Portland Bay about forty miles.  We there met from Mr Henty and 
his lady a most hospitable reception, and remained for the rest 
of the day inspecting Mr Henty's flocks, which were in admirable 
condition.  The Messrs Henty's have the merit of discovering and 
first settling this fine country,and in my opinion,have displayed 
singular judgement in their selection.

Friday 26 - We started at noon, sending on the tandem to near the 
junction of the Wannon with the River Glenelg, while Mr Henty and
ourselves went off to a small forest to hunt. We soon found and 
killed a kangaroo which gave us a chase of a mile and a half. Six
more started and took across the downs, but the dogs unfortunately
seperated and were thrown out.  We now rode to the spot where our
tandem was waiting, and after parting with Mr Henty, we crossed the
Wannon,and ascending a ridge, descended into the valley of the
Glenelg, which we also crossed, and encamped on some  beautiful
grassy flats on the right bank,distant from Mr Henty's eleven miles.
The channel of the Glenelg was much similar to that of the Darabin
near Melbourne - tea tree growing in the middle of it. At this season
very little water was running. Having now proceeded down the Wannon
from its source to its junction with the Glenelg, I can safely say 
that on the other side, the whole distance of one hundred miles, is
the most beautiful country and the richest land yet seen in 
Australia. Major Mitchell might well call such a country 
Australia Felix.

Saturday 27 - Along the banks of the Glenelg we had some shooting 
at swans and turkeys, when, passing for a mile up a well grassed 
alluvial flat, we ascended the high land which flanks the valley. 
From hence, keeping a W.N.W course for five miles, passing through 
a grassy but thickly timbered forest in which emus and kangaroos 
were very numerous we now entered a country of a very different 
character - destitute of grass, and of a loose sandy nature, 
alternately covered with patches of stunted stringy bark and the 
gum tree. Distant about ten miles we came to a small hole of water, 
where were also some recently deserted huts of the natives. From 
the shells scattered about they appeared to have been feasting on 
the eggs of the emu. We proceed, and for twenty miles passed over 
a country alternately between sandy tracts and rushy marshes  
without water at present on the surface. Passing over a high sandy 
ridge we came upon a lake of fresh water about nine miles square, 
about thirty miles  W.N.W. from our crossing place at the junction 
of the Wannon, with the Glenelg.  This lake was subsequently named 
by Mr Holloway, who had passed it some days previous to conducting 
my stock party, Lake Munday, after my friend and companion 
Lieutenant Munday.
On making the lake, we drove on the beach round the north end and
found some excellent grass for our horses; and here encamped, after
having travelled 33 miles.When the moon rose,the lake was perfectly
alive with water fowl of all descriptions -too wary however to allow
us to approach. We considered ourselves in the 41st degree of east 
longitude and entering South Australia.

Sunday 28 - We passed for three miles over a well grassed forest, 
and entered into a sandy stunted stringy bark forest,through which 
we travelled for ten miles, passing afterwards through an open 
flat  country generally of poor soil, though there were occasionally 
small patches well grassed.  We now came to a small ridge of 
limestone, bordering an extensive moor.  Here we fed our horses and 
lunched. Mr Munday discovered some extensive caves, with many round 
apertures on the surface, of about nine yards in circumference, by 
which we descended and slightly explored them. They appeared to be 
very extensive; but we did not pentrate above a hundred yards,not 
having lights to examine them interior. Our dog had some sport 
killing  bandicoots, which were numerous, and appeared to be the 
only inhabitants. Again starting, we entered upon the moor. It was 
covered with heath and low brush, making the tandem a heavy drag 
for our horses. We continued for twelve miles, and an hour after 
dark encamped on some white sand near a clump of bushes, where 
we tied up our horses for the night. Having omitted to fill our 
water kegs at the last watering place, we were obliged to content 
ourselves with a few glasses of wine undiluted. Our day's stage was 
33 miles.

Monday 29 - We started at day-break, and after travelling three 
miles we entered a small forest of she-oak, where, in a bush of 
rushes, we found a native well about a foot broad and three feet 
deep. The water was  excellent and the spring was sufficiently 
strong to enable us to draw, during the day, about fifty gallons 
for our horses. In remembrance of our yesterday's sufferings from 
thirst, we here spilled a couple of  bottles of brandy and filled 
them with water. We proceeded late in  the afternoon through a well 
grassed forest of she oak and honeysuckle for seven miles; the 
limestone appeared now and then through the surface as usual. We 
encamped for the night on an extensive marsh of deep black soil, 
where we found a well dug by Mr Holloway, whose track we were now
upon.

Tuesday 30 - This forest soon terminated, when we passed through 
sand flats of the same character as those previous passed, bounded 
on the western side by a reedy marsh covered with good water, but 
so shallow as to permit us to continue our course straight through 
it. On the border of this lake the grass is very good for stock to 
transit. For several  miles we crossed a heathy moor, when we again 
entered a beautiful well grassed forest, lightly timbered, with 
sheoak and honeysuckle, about four miles broad, which reminded us 
of the Wannon country. The soil was a black loam upon limestone - 
the rock obtruding in places. This portion is well adapted for 
agricultural purposes, the geranium and wallen growing most 
luxuriantly in spots wehre a tree has been burnt. In this forest 
we found a well in the limestone rock by which we encamped; 
the rich feed for our horses tempted us to remain having only 
accomplished seventeen miles.From the signal fires at some distance 
we were satisfied that the natives were watching us, but they
did not show themselves.

Wednesday 31 - Our course, which had hitherto been W.N.W. was 
altered to N.W.Immediately after starting we entered upon a marshy 
plain which  continued for nine miles. There were a few very large 
trees on the  plain. The soil so soft that we were obliged to lead 
our horses, and for the last two miles through water about half a 
foot deep. We now entered a wretched sandy scrub of stunted 
eucalyptus buses and grass trees, which continued for four miles, 
when again a small belt of she oak trees with good grass succeeded.  
After feeding our horses and leaving the forest we entered upon a 
marsh which extended as far as the eye could see in a north-east 
direction, but we crossed in about four miles, and passing through 
a small forest we descried at the distance of a mile the lake 
discovered by Mr Bonney in March last, and named by him Lake Hawdon. 
On approaching the lake we fell upon Mr Bonney's track and saw where 
he had dug one of his wells;but at this season water was abundant 
in  all directions; kangaroo and emus were also abundant. 
We surprised  three black women digging for roots,who ran screaming 
into the  forest, where we herad the men answering their cries; 
but they  were evidently too much alarmed to hold any communication.  
From  the lake the swamp extends to the north-east, and we attempted 
to cross it; but after proceeding nearly three miles were obliged to 
return, as our horses were plunging up to the middle, and skirt 
the sourthern edge towards a small forest, where we again
encamped by a native well.

Thursday August 1st - Continued our course this morning, passing 
alternately over thinly timbered forest of she-oak and sandy land,
and marshes which we were frequetly obliged to outflank.The 
remainder of our day's journey was over plains evidently at times 
under water; and from the dams made by natives it appears that 
they are in the habit of catching fish here in certain seasons. 
In the distance we saw two objects which we at first took to be 
emus;but on nearer approach found it to be two men on horseback 
coming at a full gallop towards us. We were glad to recognize 
Mr Fletcher and one of my own men, in search of a horse that 
had strayed from the party under Mr Holloway. We encamped for 
the night be a well of brackish water, after a stage of 20 miles.

Friday 2nd - We passed over a boggy country, and entered into 
a narrow belt of she-oak forest, bordering the coast within 
300 yards of the sea-shore. Here we found Mr Holloway encamped 
with his party and stock,all well.  We proceeded along the coast 
for fifty miles.The land immediately on the shore was high sand 
hills, bordered by a narrow grassy belt of she-oak forest; then 
a plain about a mile wide; and, to the eastward of the plain, a 
chain of lakes, as we afterwards ascertained, connected with 
Lake Alexandrina. Beyond the lakes was a country extending far 
as the eye could reach of sand hillocks. On  riding along the 
beach we saw a number of dead black whales lying on shore,from 
which great quantities of whale bone could be collected. We also 
suprised a small tribe of natives encamped among the sand hills
the filthiest looking beings that can be imagined. They had no 
clothing, and both men and women had beards of no enviable length. 
They  used for a drinking cup a human skull, the sutures of which 
were covered with pieces of shell cemeted with gum, for the purpose 
of retaining water.They appeared to be sunk to the very lowest grade 
of human nature. The sand hillock bounding the coast getting more 
precipitous, we crossed a narrow pass between the two lakes and 
proceeded up the eastern side; the country still being of a barren 
description. Towards the eastward I rode inland about ten miles, 
when I observed another chain of lakes extending to the south-east, 
parallel to those nearer the coast we had been skirting.  I met 
with an old native,and, as we  were both unarmed, we soon became 
friends. He told me that the waters of these lakes were salt. On 
my overtaking the party, we proceeded to the fresh water stream 
discovered by the men left by Mr Bonney in his last expedition 
after he had gone forward to Lake Alexandrina. This stream rises 
from underneath a mass of limestone. The water is somewhat brackish; 
the stream is sufficient to turn a mill; but after running for half 
a mile it enters the lake. In this part of the lake, which is 
perfectly salt, we observed about half a foot of rise in the
tide.

Tuesday 6 - During the previous night we heard the swans returning
from the eastward, and in the morning we perceived large flocks of
crows coming from the same direction - indications of a fresh water
lake existing at no great distance from that direction. This morning 
we left the party,and proceeded N.N.E.25 miles over a perfectly 
sandy desert, and encamped in the evening with no food nor water 
for the  horses. The following day the country for the same distance 
was  precisely of the same character, when towards the evening we 
entered a forest of she-oak bounding the main southern arm of Lake 
Alexandrina. Here we found splendid food for our horses, that had 
fasted for at least 48 hours. Next morning we proceeded four miles 
over a very pretty country bordering the lake, the rich alluvial 
flats extending from the lake for from half a mile to a mile.  The 
waters of the lake were slightly brackish but fit for use; and 
excellent water was found at the well at which we halted.  We 
remained on this beautiful spot,where the  turkeys were very numerous, 
for this and the following day.

Thursday August 8 - After crossing a belt of sandy country 
for a  distance of twelve miles, which seperates the north 
from the south arm of the lake, we struck the borders of the 
lake, here again surrounded  with rich alluvial soil, destitute 
of timber, and fit for the plough. In the evening we encamped 
at the spot where the River Murray  disembodies itself into 
the lake. A few hours afer sunset we heard the cheering report 
of a musket some distance up the river, which we answered, and 
a boat came down to our encampment from the place where we under-
stood Mr Morphett had taken a special survey. The following morning 
we proceeded seven miles up the river to where the boat was stationed: 
and through the kind assitance furnished by the boat party, we were 
enabled safely to get our horses and tandem across the Murray. A punt 
is in the course of being built here and there will be in future no 
difficulty in stock crossing. The river is here 170 yards wide, fresh 
and very deep. On either bank the beds of reeds extend in width about 
the distance of a mile. The  limestone rocks continue here, and it 
appears that the whole country  from the Glenelg to this point of 
the Murray is one bed of limestone alternately convered with sand, 
swamp, and strips of alluvial deposit covered with grass and she oak.  
In the whole distance,with the  exception of the steamlet we have 
mentioned ,there is not a single course; although water could anywhere 
be found by sinking wells. I think it  probable that, from the 
appearance of the country inland and more to the eastward, fresh 
water lakes will be found

Three days after we reached Adelaide through the Mount Barker country,
already too well known to require description; having performed a
pleasant journey in perfect safety from Melbourne within a month.
The only accident was a crack in one of the springs of the tandem, 
which was repaired by a strapping, and did not delay our progress
one hour.



source: newspaper titled the LAUNCESTON ADVERTISER, published Tas
edition date:   26th Sept 1839



note from J.Fawcett: These are newspaper articles,and should only 
be used as a general reference. Original sources should always
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