Reports

THREE CAPES - HAUY, PILLAR & RAOUL

Nov 3^rd to Nov 9^th 2007

By Barb Cornell

The hardy footsloggers that participated were Dick Johnstone, Russell Shallard, Robert Ridgwell Verna Wakefield, Roger & Barb Cornell.

CAPE HAUY Everyone eventually landed in Hobart, via car or plane. Distributed gear and passengers between two vehicles and drove to Sorell. There was a little difficulty in finding the starting point, which was located behind all the housing allotments dotted throughout the bush landscape. Even though it was rather late in the afternoon (4.30pm) it was decided to set off and get the first half hour of the walk under our belts, whilst a car shuffle was accomplished. The plan was to camp at Camp Falls but we discovered a much nicer site at Waterfall Bluff a little further on. Water could be collected at Camp Falls. The cliffs and wonderful views had begun!

Departed the next morning from Waterfall Bluff at 8.15 and had a steady climb before reaching the shoulder sidetrack to Tatnells Hill Summit. Packs were dumped to achieve the summit and the wonderful views of the coastline. The sky was grey, threatening a slight drizzle of dampness.

The vegetation was fabulous - so different to the mallee. There were very tall Stringybark Eucalypts, shrubs called Bedforia Pandanus trees and Waratahs in bloom. I really missed having Jenny & Mark Dale with us, they would have added so much more with their knowledge of the different flora. There was so much out in flower it was as though we were walking through a garden. On our way to our lunch time stop, Eagle's Lookout, we passed a group of about 20 students plus teachers, glad they were going in the opposite direction and that we weren't having to share camp site with them! We once again had 300metre cliffs magnificent views at the various lookouts as we followed the coastline around, reaching Bivouac Bay at 3.30pm. Joy of joys - a composting loo and lots of lovely fresh water from a nearby stream running into the Bay.

During the night, we were visited by a rubbish raider of some kind. So to stop all the rustling of plastic bags etc I grabbed it and stuffed it under my pillow - problem solved. We had a comfortable night camped amongst the bracken. There were had a couple of showers during the night. Decamped at 7.50am for our destination, Fortescue Bay via Canoe Bay. A Police launch had over-nighted in Canoe Bay and we watched them travelling in their dinghy to check out the local fishermen. It was the opening of the cray fishing season where the amateur fishermen get a weeks head start on the professionals. On our way around the bay we walked through a penguin rookery where we were able to see them in their burrows sitting on eggs or baby chicks. On reaching the beach at Fortescue Bay Verna & Russell almost trod on a large dead seal as they negotiated the rocks. We reached the car that had been left in the car shuffle at 10.30am.

Our esteemed leader (Roger) decided to then do the 4 Hr walk out to Cape Hauy. So there was a mad scramble to adjust to Daypack requirements and off. I was pretty weary after just having completed the 2½ Hr walk from Bivouac Bay. The first part of the Fortesque Track was a long climb upwards before it branched off to Cape Hauy. We all stopped at the junction and had lunch at which point I decided that I wouldn't be able to make it back down if I continued on, so I returned at my own pace back to the car. Once again we had walked through wonderful areas of wildflowers. Verna bravely continued on with the boys but the last hill climb proved too much for her weary legs and she also returned. So the end part of this particular section of the walk will have to be written by someone else.

We set up camp at Banksia Campsite at Fortescue Bay, a very basic but lovely spot under tall gums. There was a men and ladies toilet and a $2 token operated 4 minute shower. Roger & Russell collected the other car whilst we luxuriated in our 4 min showers. Later we allowed Russell his pet delight - a campfire!

The next morning Roger, Russell, Dick and Richard set out on the Cape Pillar section. Verna & I were destined for other adventures.

CAPE PILLAR - Written by Dick Johnstone

It was a cool cloudy Monday morning when Roger, Rob, Russell and I passed the starting sign for the two to three day return Cape Pillar walk. A clear notice warning of the hazards of high cliffs reminded us of the potential perils for the reckless and unprepared. The well-formed track gradually rose through the rising slopes of the forest before reaching open landscape. We noted the recent construction of major sections of double planked boardwalks across the flatter fragile areas where it was obvious they had replaced earlier installations as evidenced by the remnants of burned stumps. Charred tree trunks and charcoal on the ground showed that this early section had burned perhaps in the last three years. The renewal phase has produced a flourishing selection of new colourful flowering plants.

The track is very clearly defined as it crosses open button grass plains, low shrubby stretches and ferny gullies. Campsites are few but good water was flowing at a limited number of lower track crossings. We chose lunchtime creek to establish camp. Later, as the day ended, a chill breeze forced its way up the valley providing the impetus to seek the comfort of a warm sleeping bag.

I had been conscious that some light rain had fallen during the night and I wondered whether we would be making the walk to Cape Pillar in the mist. Leaving the camp intact, we took only daypacks as we encountered some sections of black mud. Roger pondered the dilemma of choosing between the principle of staying with the track or the expediency of dry boots from a detour. Before long we reached the aptly named Hurricane heath although today the air-stream could barely be detected. It is obvious that at other times, the winds from the south-west are funneled up and over the cliffs with a force that permits only the survival of the hardiest of plants in stunted, sparse and angular forms. As the terrain rises from Perdition ponds the shrubs return, providing a good level of protection from the elements. From here, the route exposes the towering cliffs that abound along the peninsular. The massive lined grey rock faces rose in sheer vertical columns from the boiling seashore far below.

Much of the track from here opens out at the cliff edges affording magnificent viewing of the vast drops to the water. It was here that Russell regretted not bringing a crowbar to tidy up some of the perilously standing pillars! There are no warning signs or handrails for the unwary. From the high vantage points we had a clear view of Tasman Island separated from the Cape by only a very narrow strip of water. Now uninhabited, the prominent white lighthouse and three residences remain, their solid structures enduring the ravages of the harsh climate. Far below at the water’s edge lay the remnants of the unloading platform and only a short distance away seals were basking on a rocky ledge.
A sign on the track points to "the chasm" but from here, some of the traveling requires ducking and scrambling until arrival at a clearing at the edge of a precipitous chasm that drops forever.
There would be no return from an accidental mishap off this terrain. We felt splendidly rewarded for our travels and yet the quest for trail’s end beckoned. The last section had had less use but before long we emerged from the scrub on to a rock ledge perched above the very end of the Cape. Ever so far down, the shoreline could be seen but only by peering right out over the edge.

The day was slightly overcast with varying cloud density producing a patchwork pattern on the flat blue sea. To the east, and about one kilometer from shore, a section of whitecaps appeared in the water. The calm returned until again the white appeared again further south revealing a grey body. Looking through the binoculars we could pick up from time to time the massive lengths of whale bodies as they powered along on their southward journey. We were witnessing a significant pod of Humpback whales on their migration.

The Cape Pillar walk reveals some of the most spectacular and sheer coastline I have ever seen. Construction of the track is the most visible sign of human influence and apart from a very few cleared areas for limited camping I imagine the landscape is not dissimilar to what it would have been prior to white settlement. It has been our good fortune to be able to experience for ourselves the grandeur of this part of Tasmania.

The morning the boys left for Cape Pillar, Verna & I decided to do our own touring and visited the Devil's Kitchen, Tasman and Patterson Arches, The Blow hole and the Tessellated Pavement. At the Blow hole car park was fish a chip van at which we bought ourselves lunch. Verna happened to pick up a pamphlet on a boat tour that went to Cape Hauy, Cape Pillar and Tasman Island. As we sat near the jetty enjoying our lunch the very boat came in and we suddenly decided that we would book ourselves for the trip the next day.

What a trip! The 750 HP boat carrying 30 passengers left the jetty at Pirates Bay at 10.00am for our 3½ hr 'sealife experience' trip. The owners, Nick & Craig, took the boat within meters of the cliffs and into some of the cave formations. We went passed the coastline that we had previously walked only days before. On the way we stopped to watch a group of seals feeding on a shoal of fish. The engines were turned off whilst we watched the action and the shoal went under the boat to try and escape the seals. An underwater camera was lowered overboard and we could watch all the action on a flat computer screen aboard - fabulous.

We then sped off at great speed to view the Totem Pole & the Candlestick and onto Cape Pillar & Tasman Island. As we were touring the base of Cape Pillar the boys were viewing the boat from above, not knowing that we were aboard. On the return trip we anchored in Canoe Bay for a sheltered anchorage whilst nibbles and wine were served. We also were lucky to have seen humpback whales and their calves To top our day off, after the trip we visited the convict penal settlement at Port Arthur.

The next day (Wed.) we waited for the boys to return. Dick and Russell were back at 11.00am. Roger & Robert returned by the longer route via Mt Fortescue and arrived back in camp at 4.00pm.

CAPE RAOUL From Banksia Campsite it was a ½ hour drive to the start of our walk. Set off at 8.10am from the cars. Once again there was a long, but gentle, climb to the cliff tops. We were so early that the sea mist hadn't had time to lift. We continued along the cliff top until we descended through a beautiful subtropical forest of ferns, moss and tall eucalypts. At the bottom of the descent we entered a lovely wooded area of she-oaks. The track was beautifully soft under foot because of all the fallen she-oak needles. The wooded area continued for a couple of klms before we emerged into low wind pruned bush and shrubs. We reached the end of Cape Raoul after 3 hrs and spent an hour having lunch and admiring the wonderful pillars of rock & the sheer drops to the ocean below.

On the return, the 'hares' (Rob, Dick & Russell), went ahead so they could do a quick side trip out to Ship's Stern Bluff. Roger, Verna & I stopped at a cliff lookout where we could view Ship's Stern Bluff and enjoyed a lovely long rest, the magnificent coastal views and to watch the other three (with the aid of binoculars) progress towards their goal. After a short time Rob was the only one to make it down to sea level and the base of the Bluff. After a further time just enjoying our surroundings we made our way back to the car and camp at Fortesque Bay.

A really superb walk and well worth the effort and energy spent in achieving it. Roger's idea of doing the 3 Capes before the Parks people start to commercialize it was a good one. The feeling of being in the true wilderness will be lost with the erection of huts, designated camping sites, fees and regulations that goes with such things.

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